SELECTING
Many homeowners make the mistake of picking out, or even buying a tree or shrub and then trying to fit it into their landscape. A more successful approach is usually to first determine the purpose of the planting, and then to pick from a list of appropriate choices. Is your choice strictly ornamental? Do you need shade for yard or house, or a screen? Do you want to attract wildlife? Do you want a plant that flowers, is deciduous, or evergreen?

PLANTING
Container or balled & burlapped ( B&B ) shrubs and trees can be planted anytime during the growing season. Soil should be well drained, moist and warm ( 45 degrees or more ). Maintain ideal soil moisture during the first season. Poorly drained soil , improper planting and insufficient moisture during the first few years of establishment are the most common causes of failure. Dig a hole twice the width of the container , not much deeper. Plant the tree or shrub at the same depth as it was in the container, and backfill with soil amended with good topsoil, peat moss and compost or Complete Planting Mix. Water in well; a long slow trickle is better than flooding.

WATERING
Water newly planted trees & shrubs for several hours once or twice a week through the 1st growing season. Continue watering until the ground freezes ( usually November ).

STAKING
Many smaller trees benefit from staking during their first season. Staking can protect a small tree from harsh wind and help keep it in an upright position. Remove stakes the second season. A good staking kit helps prevent damage to a young tree from inappropriate staking materials. Avoid using wire or uncushioned twine which can cut into tender bark.

FERTILIZING
Fertilize annually while the soil is moist and the roots active. A late summer / fall feeding can also help the plants store food for spring growth. For trees up to 3" in diameter use 2 lbs 5-10-5 or 1lb 10-10-10 per inch of trunk diameter at a height of 4 1/2'. For trees over 3" diameter, use 5lbs 5-10-5 or 3lbs 10-10-10 per inch of trunk diameter at 4 1/2' high.
Apply fertilizer on the surface so that not more than 1lb Nitrogen ( as 10 lbs of 10-10-10 or 20 lbs of 5-10-5 ) is spread over 1000 sq. ft of soil surface. Water the fertilizer in well.

MULCHING
Mulch in late fall to reduce winter injury, and to conserve moisture in summer. 2-3" of bark mulch works well ; avoid mounding up against trunk. Avoid using peat moss, which forms a waterproof crust when dry, or sawdust or wood chips.

PRUNING
Prune established plants to improve structure and appearance ; remove dead or diseased wood. Prune to a branch or trunk , do not leave a stub. Best time to prune is from February 1st to May 1st. During summer months, prune trees that exude sap in the spring, such as elm, birch & maple.

PEST CONTROL
Properly pruned, fertilized & watered plants are troubled by fewer diseases. Select disease - resistant varieties whenever possible & maintain them in vigorous conditions. Intelligent insect control measures are based on an understanding of the life cycle of the pests and their host relationships. Apply sprays as soon as damage is seen or during the recommended time span of an insect's life cycle. Symptoms include distortion of leaves or new growth, discoloration , holes & black sooty mold growing on insect residue on plant parts. Check with your garden center staff for recommendations for controls appropriate for your situation.

WEED CONTROL
Weed control in home ornamental planting is best achieved by starting with weed-free sites, mulching, careful cultivation, and hand - pulling.Since many desirable trees & shrubs are located in or around turf areas, avoid injury from lawn weed killers.

WINTER PROTECTION
Mulching in late fall can reduce winter injury to most trees & shrubs. Broad-leaf evergreens, such as rhododendron, holly & mountain laurel, benefit from spraying with Wilt-Pruf around the time of hard frost ( usually around Thanksgiving ). This prevents them from losing too much moisture to drying winter winds.

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